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In recent years, the denim industry has seen a significant shift towards sustainability, with consumers becoming more conscious of the environmental impact of their clothing choices. One notable trend within this movement is the resurgence of raw selvage denim. This traditional denim-making technique is gaining popularity not only for its unique aesthetics but also for its positive environmental implications. In this article, we'll explore how raw selvage denim serves as a precursor to sustainable denim by forgoing the environmentally harmful processes of industrial washing, including potassium spray and stone wash.

Understanding Raw Selvage Denim: Raw selvage denim, often referred to as "selvedge" or "raw denim," is made from the highest quality denim fabric woven on traditional shuttle looms. The selvage edge, characterized by its tightly woven, clean-finished edge, contributes to the fabric's durability and longevity. Unlike modern denim manufacturing methods, raw selvage denim is not subjected to heavy pre-treatments or artificial distressing techniques. Instead, it is left in its natural, untreated state, allowing the wearer to shape the denim's unique fade patterns and creases over time.

The selvage edge on the side seam of a pair of raw selvage denim jeans

Environmental Impact of Industrial Washing: Traditional denim production, especially during the 1980s,1990s and 2000's relied heavily on industrial washing techniques to achieve the distressed, worn-in look that was in high demand. These processes often involved harmful chemicals, excessive water usage, and energy-intensive machinery. Two commonly used methods were potassium spray (also known as "whiskering") and stone washing. Potassium spray involved applying potassium permanganate to the denim fabric to create the faded appearance, while stone washing required tumbling denim with pumice stones to soften and distress the material.

Potassium permanganate spray booth 

The Sustainability Advantage of Raw Selvage Denim: Raw selvage denim's sustainability advantage lies in its minimalist approach to production. By skipping the intensive washing and distressing processes, this denim variant significantly reduces its environmental footprint. Here's how:

1. Reduced Water Consumption: Raw selvage denim production consumes significantly less water compared to industrial washing methods, which often require large amounts of water for rinsing and finishing.

2. Chemical Reduction: The omission of chemical treatments like potassium spray eliminates the need for harmful substances, reducing pollution and promoting safer working conditions for factory workers.

3. Energy Efficiency: Raw denim production relies less on energy-intensive machinery and processes, contributing to lower carbon emissions and a smaller overall energy footprint.

4. Extended Lifespan: Raw selvage denim's durability ensures that the garment lasts longer, reducing the need for frequent replacements and lowering the overall demand for denim production.

5. Personalized Fading: The natural fading process of raw selvage denim offers wearers a unique, personalized look that evolves over time. This eliminates the desire for artificial fading techniques and encourages a connection between consumers and their clothing.

Conclusion: Raw selvage denim stands as a testament to the potential of traditional, minimalist production methods in the context of sustainability. By avoiding the environmentally damaging practices of industrial washing, such as potassium spray and stone wash, raw selvage denim exemplifies a responsible approach to denim production. As consumers continue to prioritize sustainable choices in their fashion selections, the revival of raw selvage denim offers a timeless alternative that not only looks good but also minimizes the ecological impact of denim manufacturing.

A prime example of authentically worn in raw selvage denim

Thanks to the folks over at Men's Journal for bringing the good news to the uninitiated that investing in a top quality, American Made, raw selvedge denim jacket doesn't have to cost a small fortune. 

Brave Star Selvage

The Ironside 14oz Selvedge Denim Jacket

Thanks once again to The Denim Hound for featuring and reviewing our new Cone Mills unfinished 14oz in the Regular Taper fit. 

Fit: Regular Taper. A roomy top block and thighs with a strong taper down the leg.

Measurements (size 32): Waist 35″, rise 10.5″, back rise 15.2″, hip 19″, seat 19.6″, thigh 12″, knee 8.25″, hem 6.7″, inseam 37″. 1.5″ shrinkage on the waistband, 2″ on the inseam.

Fabric: 14oz 100% cotton, unfinished/un-singed sanforized selvedge denim from Cone Mills, White Oak. Right hand twill with a greycast to the indigo warp and white weft. This has to be one of the most character rich Cone denims I have ever seen. Very hairy with a good amount of nep. This denim also has very small, sporadic slub yarns in the warp and weft. It feels almost like an unsanforized denim. Cone denim usually has a tight weave using high tension yarns. This denim however, has a looser than usual weave, with medium tension yarns.

#stayraw

BRAVE STAR SELVAGE GOING ULTRA HEAVYWEIGHT

Thanks to The Denim Hound for the review on the 21.5oz ultra heavyweight. Greg has a keen eye for all things indigo and has probably reviewed more selvedge denim than anyone else on this planet. Check it out here www.thedenimhound.com and give him a follow on his social channels.

Jeroen over at The Artisan Journal has a great article up on his blog about the raw vs. washed selvage topic and asked us our two cents. Well here it is...  

A RETROSPECTIVE OF THE MODERN T-SHIRT

Like Jeans, the T-shirt has become one of the most universal pieces of clothing on the planet. The history and symbolic importance of the knitted cotton jersey is often overlooked, despite being a classic American icon and ultimate medium of branding in modern culture. Whether you have the budget of a president or peasant, everyone owns a t-shirt. Dropping Oct 7th, we'll be bringing the classic American staple to your doorsteps. Cutting out the middleman and making the aspirational attainable. Affordable American made goods; that's our mission. READ ON HERE

Cone Denim stories: Industry legends on their history with White Oak Mill

Sam over at WGSN an Industry News/Media site has written a very cool two part feature on Cone Mills who are celebrating their 110th Anniversary this year. Check it out, its worth a read...Thanks Sam!

We have just released a very limited run of our brand new Tapered Chino in authentic 8.8oz Cramerton selvage army cloth for Pre Order starting today July 14!

20% Off our Entire Store for the Next 24HRS Only!

Available Exclusively on the Spring App! 

Our good friends at the Spring app are running a special this Sunday June 28th starting @ 5PM PST