Washing Your Raw Selvedge Denim For The First Time.

There are a many unique formulas and techniques that can be used when washing and drying your raw denim for the first time but we'll focus specifically on when and how to wash your Brave Stars based on our own personal and preferred method.

          "A successful first wash"

WHEN:

This is probably the most crucial step when contemplating the first wash and not for any factor other than shrinkage. All sanforized raw denim will shrink between 0%-3% post first wash. Unsanforized denim will shrink anywhere up to 10%. We have never offered unsanforized denim here at Brave Star so we'll ignore this quality for now. Well then, exactly how much is 3% in actual size? Simple math will tell us a size 32 jean with a full waist measurement of 34.5 inches (17.25 flat measure) with a shrinkage factor of 3% will shrink to 33.46 inches meaning one full size (1 inch) will be lost in the waistband as well as other crucial fit areas such as the low hip and thigh. If you soak or wash your jeans before you have worn them for any extended period of time including the initial try on then you risk shrinking them a full size (or more) which could render them unwearable as they'll be too small. The only time this would be advantageous is if they're too big (by at least a size) then of course go ahead and soak them right out of the box.

To achieve the best fit possible, we highly recommend you wear your jeans for at least 3 to 6 months before washing them. However, if you feel compelled to wash them earlier then we recommend at a minimum a full week of consistent wear. If wear will be inconsistent then we suggest two to three weeks before the first soak or wash. Why? This will allow your jeans to stretch out to their max capacity so that when you do wash them they will shrink back to their original pre wash size. Yes, we know they don't feel as comfortable as your joggers out of the box but with a little patience and persistence they will break in to be extremely comfortable and pliable. To get an almost bespoke fit, air dry them until they are damp, then put them on and let them dry on your body. This will allow them to conform to your body shape as they are drying, creating an almost custom fit pair of jeans. Fit manipulation is one of the huge advantages that raw selvedge denim has over regular, pre washed denim and why we swear by raw denim in the first place.

Recap:

  1. Do not soak or wash your jeans before wearing them.*
  2. Wear your jeans for at least a full week, preferably two to three weeks before the first soak or wash.
  3. Air dry them until damp, then put them on and let them dry on your body.

*unless they're at least one size too big and long enough in the inseam

How:

There is a lot more liberty in the different washing methods and no hard and fast rule in our opinion. You will find a lot of great tips on the raw denim forums and websites from fellow denim heads that have all gone before you in this department. We do have a few tips from our own experience over the last few years of washing our own personal pairs and seeing what works for us.

Washing:

"RAIN WASH"

There are may ways to "wash" your jeans including but not limited to soaking in a tub, wearing them in the shower, washing them in a washing machine, hand washing them in the ocean or river, leaving them out in the rain etc etc. Our go to method is utilizing the washing machine especially if you want to remove odor and stains. For detergent, we highly recommend staying away from commercial laundry detergents (powder or liquid) as they have been formulated to get rid of stains at any cost and have harsh chemical agents which are not kind to the cotton yarn as the residue from these detergents remain attached to your jeans and will continue to build up after each wash and can compromise the yarns causing your jeans to deteriorate at a faster rate. Along with machine drying, commercial laundry detergents are the single biggest threat to the lifespan of your selvage. If you do decide to wash your jeans in a washing machine its imperative that you remove them before the spin cycle as this will cause the indigo or color to 'streak'. Also remember that the hotter the water temperature the more your jeans will shrink so we advise a warm water water cycle or even a cold water cycle if you're unsure. 

Recap:

  1. Soak or wash in warm water.
  2. Stay away from commercial laundry powders and detergents.

Drying:

Last but not least, this step is a little more intuitive than the washing part. One cardinal rule to remember is to avoid machine drying your jeans and only air dry them. If you absolutely have to machine dry them do not utilize the high temperature setting as this will shrink your jeans way more than you think and probably render them unwearable not to mention that high temperatures and cotton do not get along. Use the lowest setting possible and don't over dry them. Pull them out a little damp and let them air dry on your body.

Recap:

  1. Air dry inside out in a shaded area.
  2. Avoid machine drying on high temperatures at all costs.

So there you have it, a simple and straight forward approach to caring for your raw selvedge denim ensuring you maximize their lifespan and enhance their aesthetic to the fullest potential. 

Stay Raw, Denim heads...

HOW TO MEASURE YOUR JEANS/SIZING CHART

How to correctly measure your jeans

Waist Measure:

Lay the jeans on a flat surface. Flatten the waistband by pressing out any wrinkles or kinks with your hands. Pull the front waistband up parallel with the back waistband and measure across the top from edge to edge. This edge to edge measurement will give you a half measure which is what we have listed below in our sizing chart. A full measure can be obtained by doubling the flat measurement number for e.g. 16.75 inches x 2 = 33.5 inches.

Measuring your selvedge denim jeans

Low Hip:

This is an important point of measure for low hips and seat. Flatten down the hips so no wrinkle or kinks remain.

Next, measure 6 inches down from the bottom of the waistband at the side seam. Mark with your finger or light colored pencil.

Measure at a slight downward angle just below the J stitch and then across the opposite side going up at the same slight angle. A picture is worth a thousand words so here it is.

Thigh:

Most folks get this wrong, thats ok this is how you get the correct measure. Measure one inch down from the midpoint between the double needle stitch of the front rise. Mark with your finger or light colored pencil.

Measure across at a slightly upward angle following the natural pitch of the thigh panel.

INSEAM:

Measure from the same midpoint of the double needle at the top where the thigh and crotch meet. Walk the tape measure down the contour of the inseam along the stitch to the edge of the hem. 

BRAVE STAR SIZING CHART:

The comparison to LEVI'S fit styles is merely a reference point for those unfamiliar with how our jeans fit since there is no industry sizing standard. Most people have at some point in their lives owned a pair of LEVI'S and is the greatest common fit denominator when trying to gauge jean sizing. Our pattern blocks are unique to Brave Star and have been developed and fine tuned over the years with our head pattern maker and could feel completely different on your body in comparison to a pair of LEVI'S due to fabric weight & composition. One other factor to keep in mind is that the single pair of LEVI'S that we purchased here in Los Angeles to measure and feature on our size chart is not necessarily indicative of how that same style of LEVI'S fits on you when you purchased it since we have found quite a large variance in their sizing depending on where the jean was manufactured, the weight of the fabric and the wash applied to the jean.                                        

Fit Model is wearing size 31 in all fits.

Please allow for a +/- 1/4" tolerance in the waistband vs listed spec.

All measurements are flat measurements. For full measure double the number listed, for eg size 32 waist = 17.25 inches flat x 2 = 34.5 all the way around.

SIZE 28 29 30      

BRAVE

STAR

31

LEVI'S

510

31

32 33 34 35 36
WAIST 14 3/4  15 1/4 15 3/4  16 3/4 16 17 1/4  17 3/4 18 1/4 18 3/4  19 1/4
F.RISE 9 1/4 9 1/2 9 3/4 10  11.5

 

10 1/4   

10 1/2 10 3/4 11  11 1/4
B.RISE 13 3/4 14 14 1/4 14 1/2 15 14 3/4 15 15 1/4 15 1/2 15 3/4
THIGH 10 1/4 10 5/8 11  11 3/8 11 1/4 11 5/8 11 3/4 12 1/8 12 1/2 12 3/4
KNEE 6 1/2 6 3/4  7 5/8 7 1/2 7 3/4  8 1/4 8 1/2 8 3/4

OPENING

5 7/8  6 1/8 6 3/8 6 1/2 6 5/8 6 3/4 7 1/4 7 1/2 7 3/4

INSEAM

34 34 34 34 32 34 34 34 34 34

  

All measurements are flat measurements. For full measure double the number listed, for eg size 32 waist = 17.25 inches flat x 2 = 34.5 all the way around.

SIZE 28 29 30

BRAVE

STAR

31

LEVI'S

505

31

32 33 34 35 36 38
WAIST 15 151/2 16 161/2 161/2

 

17      

171/2 18 181/2 19 201/4
F.RISE 10 101/4 101/2 103/4 12 11 11 1/4 11 1/2 11 3/4 12 121/2
B. RISE 13 1/4 13 3/4 14 141/4 143/4 141/2 143/4 15 151/4 151/2 16
THIGH 105/8 11 113/8 11 3/4 12 12 121/4  121/2 123/4 13 131/4
KNEE 7 1/4 7 1/2 7 3/4 8 8 1/4 8 1/2 85/8 8 3/4 9 5/8
OPENING 6 1/4 6 1/2 6 5/8 7 67/8  7 1/8 7 3/8 75/8 77/8  81/4
INSEAM 35 35 35 35 32 35 35 35 35 35 35

 

All measurements are flat measurements. For full measure double the number listed, for eg size 32 waist = 17.25 inches flat x 2 = 34.5 all the way around.                             

SIZE 28 29 30

BRAVE

STAR

31

LEVI'S

511

31

32 33 34 35 36 38 40
WAIST 15 1/4 153/4 161/4  163/4 16 5/8 171/4 173/4 181/4 183/4 191/4 201/4 211/4
F.RISE 9 3/4

 

10 10 1/4 101/2 10 1/4 10 3/4 11 11 1/4 11 1/2 11 3/4 12 1/4 12 3/4
B.RISE 13 1/4 13 1/2 13 3/4 14 13 5/8 141/4 14 1/2 14 3/4 15 15 1/4 15 1/2 15 3/4 
THIGH 10 5/8 103/4  11 3/8 11 3/4 11 5/8 121/8 125/8 123/4 131/8 131/2 14 1/4 143/4
KNEE 7 7 1/4 7 1/2 7 3/4 7 3/4 8 8 1/4 8 1/2 8 3/4 9 9 3/4 101/4
OPENING 6 1/2 6 3/4 7 7 1/4 7 1/4 7 1/2 7 3/4 8 8 1/4 8 1/2 9 9 1/4
INSEAM 34 34 34 35 32 35 35 36 36 36 36 36

 

The Regular Taper Cone Mills Heavy Weight Selvedge Denim 

All measurements are flat measurements. For full measure double the number listed, for eg size 32 waist = 17.25 inches flat x 2 = 34.5 all the way around.                             

SIZE 28 29

30

31 32 33 34 35 36 38 40
WAIST 15  151/2 16  16 1/2 17 17 1/2 18 181/2 19 20 21
F.RISE

 

9 3/4 

 

10 10 1/4 101/2 10 3/4 11 11 1/4 11 1/2 11 3/4 12 1/4 12 3/4
B.RISE 13 1/4

 

13 1/2

13 3/4 14 141/4 14 1/2 14 3/4 15 15 1/4 15 1/2 15 3/4 
Low Hip 18 18 1/4 18 5/8 19 19 5/8 20 20 5/8 21 21 5/8 22 1/2 23
THIGH 10 3/4 11  11 1/4 11 3/4 121/8 12 1/2 123/4 131/8 131/2 14 1/4 143/4
KNEE 6 3/4 7 1/4 7 3/4 8 1/4 8 1/2 8 3/4 9 9 1/2 10
OPENING 6 1/4 6 1/2 6 3/4 7 1/4 7 1/2 7 3/4 8 8 3/8 8 3/4 
INSEAM 33 35 35 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36

 

All measurements are flat measurements. For full measure double the number listed, for eg size 32 waist = 17.25 inches flat x 2 = 34.5 all the way around. 

SIZE 29 30

Brave

Star

31

LEVI'S

504

31

32 33 34 35 36 38 40 42
WAIST 16
16 1/2 16 3/4 17 17 1/4 17 3/4 18 1/4 18 3/4 19 1/4 20 1/4 21 1/4 22 1/4
F.RISE 10 1/2 10 3/4 11 10 3/4 11 1/4 11 1/2 11 3/4 12 12 1/4 12 3/4 13 1/4 13 3/4
B.RISE 14 1/2 14 3/4 15 14.5 15 1/4 15 1/2 15 3/4 16  16 1/4 16 3/4 17 1/4 17 3/4
Low Hip 18 18 1/2 19 19 19 1/2 20 20 1/2 21 21 1/2 22 1/4 23 1/4 24 1/4
THIGH 11 1/4 11 5/8 11 3/4 12  12 1/8 12 1/2 12 7/8 13 1/8 13 1/2 14 3/8 14 7/8 15 1/2
KNEE 8 1/4 8 1/2 8 3/4 8 3/4 9 9 1/4 9 1/2 9 3/4 10 10 1/2 10 3/4 11
OPENING 7 1/4 7 1/2 7 3/4 8 8 1/4 8 3/8 8 1/2 8 5/8 8 3/4 9 1/4
INSEAM 35 1/2 35 1/2 35 1/2 32 35 1/2 35 1/2 36 36 36 36 36 36