We've been looking for a cousin to our 16.5oz Cone quality that has pretty much been our signature selvage for the past two years and we think we have found it in this heavy, super dark 16.5oz indigo. So why is it so special? Read on...
Woven at the renowned Kuroki Mill in Japan, this fabric is an absolute fantastic example of the type of quality that is consistently being produced by smaller 'boutique' Mills. The weave is open and loose which gives the fabric a coarse hand and uneven face. There is a roughness and heft to this selvage that is very satisfying to those that demand their denim to fight back during the break in process. The pronounced cross hatch adds to the complex highs and lows in the indigo warp and natural weft yarn.
When it comes to heavyweight fabrics we almost always prefer our shades to be as dark as possible and this selvage does not disappoint. The sulphur top gives this quality an ultra dark, blue black shade that quickly gives way to a rich, intense deep blue indigo after a few washes. As you can see from the sample wash swatches the evolution of this selvage is truly in a class of itself.
This fit runs true to size and is comparable to LEVI's 522 and Nudies Lean Dean fit.
The inspiration for this 2.0 fit was to merge our Slim Straight top block with the bottom half (knee down) of the Skeleton. The result is a true
The new top block has been opened up in the waistband & low hip/seat which means they sit more naturally on the hips vs. the Slim Taper 1.0 The longer rise gives the silhouette a natural 'slouched' look without having to sag. The narrow bottom opening will create an impressive stacking effect around the ankles that will have sneaker heads rejoicing. This is a style that will give you points for being relevant while still being able to act your age which surprisingly are not mutually exclusive concepts.
If you need your selvage denim hemmed to a custom inseam then look no further. There is only one way to chain stitch a selvedge denim hem and that's on a folder equipped Union Special 43200g. Why you ask? These machines create a desirable roping effect on the hem which is actually caused by a feed differential defect. What this means is that the fabric is metered through the folder (which feeds the hem to the needle) at a different speed than the feed dogs (on the bottom pulling the fabric) causing a push/pull effect on the hem which is what ultimately causes the roping effect. This roping effect is one of the characteristics that make vintage denim so desirable to collectors and the reason why these machines are so sought after now. The 43200g was first manufactured in 1939 and was phased out in the 80's. Because they were know for this mechanical defect a lot of them were abandoned, stripped for parts and exported to places such as North Africa and South East Asia. To find one in such good working condition as we have is truly rare.
NOTE: Please allow for 7 - 10 WORKING days from the time your order is processed. Hemmed jeans are FINAL SALE.
Earlier this year we had the privilege of offering you rivet heads a stunning 14.5oz weight from Kuroki Japan but we only had enough for a very limited run and it sold out in a couple of days. Well this time we've upped the ante and have managed to score a similar quality but in an extra heavy 18.5oz which we obviously couldn't pass up. This fabric embodies all the characteristics we love in our raw selvedge denim. The face is highly textured with an open face weave that is coarse and dry to the touch. The yarn is really the secret weapon here as it is thick and ropey with a super low tension weave which is the key to achieving a selvage of this caliber. We've added a pic of the back of the fabric for you to check out the unevenness caused by the slow cooked, low tension weaving that can only be attained on a shuttle loom.
As for the indigo shade, that doesn't disappoint either. A dark indigo top with a slight green cast base that will become more apparent as the jean is worn and washed throughout the break in process. The sulfur green cast gives off a subtle 'aged' aesthetic right out of the gate and in addition to the indigo shade the denim will acquire a third color dimension as a natural patina is worked into the yarns over the weeks and months of wear and tear. We look forward to seeing the fades you Rivet Heads are able to pull off with this quality!
Not to be ignored is the very unique triple stripe, red-white-red selvage iD. Overall, this is a superb specimen of high quality weave-manship.
We are super pumped to offer this to you at only $118.00.
SLIM STRAIGHT is comparable in fit to LEVI'S® 511™ SLIM FIT or NUDIE® JEANS GRIM TIM
One of the heaviest weights produced by Cone and our most popular heavy selvage to date. Minimal 'grin through' of weft yarn showcases the saturated green cast indigo against a tight warp yarn weave. This beast will give you the fade characteristics you've only seen pictures of.
SLIM STRAIGHT is comparable in fit to LEVI'S® 511™ SLIM FIT or NUDIE® JEANS GRIM TIM.
The comparison to LEVI'S fit styles is merely a reference point for those unfamiliar with how our jeans fit since there is no industry sizing standard. Most people have at some point in their lives owned a pair of LEVI'S and is the greatest common fit denominator when trying to gauge jean sizing. Our pattern blocks are unique to Brave Star and have been developed and fine tuned over the years with our head pattern maker and could feel completely different on your body in comparison to a pair of LEVI'S due to fabric weight & composition. One other factor to keep in mind is that the single pair of LEVI'S that we purchased here in Los Angeles to measure and feature on our size chart is not necessarily indicative of how that same style of LEVI'S fits on you when you purchased it since we have found quite a large variance in their sizing depending on where the jean was manufactured, the weight of the fabric and the wash applied to the jean.
Fit Model is wearing size 31 in all fits.
Please allow for a +/- 1/4" tolerance in the waistband vs listed spec.
|WAIST||14 3/4||15 1/4||15 3/4||16 3/4||16||17 1/4||17 3/4||18 1/4||18 3/4||19 1/4|
|F.RISE||9 1/2||9 3/4||10||10||11.5||
|10 1/2||10 3/4||11||11 1/2|
|B.RISE||12 1/2||13||13 1/2||14 1/2||15||14 3/4||15||15 1/4||15 1/2||15 3/4|
|THIGH||10 1/4||10 5/8||11||11 3/8||11 1/4||11 5/8||11 3/4||12 1/8||12 1/2||12 3/4|
|KNEE||6 1/2||6 3/4||7||7 5/8||7 1/2||7 3/4||8||8 1/4||8 1/2||8 3/4|
|5 7/8||6 1/8||6 3/8||6 1/2||6 5/8||6 3/4||7||7 1/4||7 1/2||7 3/4|
|WAIST||15 1/4||153/4||161/4||163/4||16 5/8||171/4||173/4||181/4||183/4||191/4||201/4||211/4|
|9.5||10||101/2||10 1/4||11||111/2||12||12||121/2||13 1/2||141/2|
|B.RISE||12 1/2||13||13 1/2||14||13 5/8||141/2||15||151/2||16||161/2||17 1/2||19|
|THIGH||10 5/8||103/4||11 3/8||11 3/4||11 5/8||121/8||125/8||123/4||131/8||131/2||14 1/4||143/4|
|KNEE||7||7 1/4||7 1/2||7 3/4||7 3/4||8||8 1/4||8 1/2||8 3/4||9||9 3/4||101/4|
|OPENING||6 1/2||6 3/4||7||7 1/4||7 1/4||7 1/2||7 3/4||8||8 1/4||8 1/4||8 1/2||8 1/2|
|KNEE||7||7 1/4||7 1/2||7 3/4||8||8||8 1/4||8 1/2||85/8||8 3/4||9 5/8|
|OPENING||6||6 1/4||6 1/2||6 5/8||7||67/8||7 1/8||7 3/8||75/8||77/8||81/4|
||16 1/2||16 3/4||17||17 1/4||17 3/4||18 1/4||18 3/4||19 1/4||20 1/4||21 1/4||22 1/4|
|F.RISE||10 1/2||10 3/4||11||10 3/4||11 1/4||11 1/2||11 3/4||12||12 1/4||12 3/4||13 1/4||13 3/4|
|B.RISE||14||14 1/2||15||14.5||15 1/4||15 1/2||15 3/4||16||16 1/4||16 3/4||17 1/4||17 3/4|
|THIGH||11 1/4||11 5/8||12||12||12 3/8||12 3/4||13 1/8||13 1/2||13 7/8||14 5/8||14 7/8||15 5/8|
|KNEE||8 1/4||8 1/2||8 3/4||8 3/4||9||9 1/4||9 1/2||9 3/4||10||10 1/2||10 3/4||11|
|OPENING||7 3/4||7 7/8||8||8||8 1/8||8 1/4||8 1/2||8 5/8||8 3/4||9||9 1/4||9 1/2|
|INSEAM||35 1/2||35 1/2||35 1/2||32||35 1/2||35 1/2||36||36||36||36||36||36|