This 18oz cuts right to the bone in defining true, craftsmanship heavyweight selvage denim. Samurai is a true 12-dip pure powdered-indigo with no coloring that produces a beautiful, saturated indigo on the face of the denim. To achieve the rich indigo hue the key is in the height of the rope dyeing range. This lot was dyed on a two story high range which is twice the traditional range height. This means a slower process each time the yarn is lowered (12 dip or times) into the vat which increases the time available for oxidization which is when the magic happens. A 12 dip indigo process is the deepest indigo shade currently available. There is an ever so slight grin thru from the weft yarn that solidifies the traditional denim aesthetic which is at the heart of this quality. At a solid 18oz, this is still an easy heavyweight to break in and after a few weeks of solid wear the yarns become supple and soft due to the long staple cotton. We expect to see a great vertical fade on these 18's with a lot of contrast once the indigo starts chipping off the high ridges of the warp yarns. This vertical fading characteristic is also known as Tate-Ochi, or “vertical falls”, in Japanese. Traditional red selvage iD finishes off this single run lot.
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- 18oz Japan indigo selvage.
- Red Orange top stitching for authentic denim aesthetic.
- Sewn & chain stitched in all the right places on vintage Union Special, Reece & Singer machines.
- A & E core spun poly thread for maximum strength & durability.
- Button fly with double prong, donut style buttons. Old style pocket rivet burrs.
- All hardware is made in Kentucky.
- 8/9mm ultra thick vegetable tan leather back patches.
- Patches are cut & stamped in Los Angeles & waistband label is woven locally in Los Angeles.
- Every aspect of the production is US made in Downtown Los Angeles.