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The Slim Straight 15oz 'Heavy Sky' Japan Selvage

If you've spent any amount of time reading or researching selvage denim on the internet you've probably read or heard the following claim -  'American Mills sold all their looms to Japan in the 80s...'. This is a myth that has been perpetuated by well intentioned yet very misinformed menswear blogs who write the obligatory selvage denim feature every Fall.

The truth is Japan never needed American looms because they had their own. By 1924, a small company called Toyoda (the first incarnation of Toyota Motors) perfected a technologically advanced loom that utilized a fully automatic shuttle reload. Traditionally, one loom operator would manually load new weft bobbins into the shuttle however due to the automatic reload one operator could now manage up to 20 looms at a time.  The first version was called the Model G loom. Due to the success of the Model G, Toyoda Automatic Loom Works was able to fund their first automobile design and production which eventually led to the establishing of the Toyota Motor Division in 1933 and then the Toyota Motor Co. in 1937.

The 15oz selvage quality being offered for this drop was woven on the Toyoda Model G3 loom which is still in use at some of Japan's most legendary denim mills.

Fabric Notes:

We often acquire over runs and dead stock from our fabric sources in the US and Japan and this was an awesome find. A dark, pure indigo with just the right amount of even and slub yarn weighing in at a solid 15oz which, in our opinion, is the sweet spot between a medium and heavy weight. This is selvedge denim at its finest. In order to obtain the required deep shade of blue color the ropes (yarn) are  immersed 5 – 6 times in a sequence of dye boxes with an oxidation range – so called skying – after each dye box. Having passed the dyeing and oxidation range the ropes are guided through 2 or 3 washing boxes to wash off excessive dye. In the last box softener is added to ease the opening of the ropes. They are dried in a series of cans. This is an extremely labor intensive dyeing method. There is no substitute for denim of this caliber. Woven in Japan by one of the most storied denim mills in the world and guaranteed to satisfy even the most jaded denim head. Sleep on this at your own peril...

  • 15oz RHT Indigo warp yarn x Natural fill yarn. Faint Red selvage iD. 
  • Woven on the infamous Toyoda G3 loom
  • Incredible High contrast fades.
  • An essential addition to your rotation of raws. Small batch production, limited stock.
  • Note this fabric was designed to be worn the old way - lots of wear, lots of washing.


Details include:

  • Red Orange top stitching with Natural leather patch and antique brass hardware.
  • Sewn & chain stitched in all the right places on vintage Union Special, Reece & Singer machines.
  • A & E core spun poly thread for maximum strength & durability.
  • Embroidered star insignia on the right back pocket represents ‘Made in America’ status.
  • Button fly with double prong, donut style buttons. Old style pocket rivet burrs.
  • All hardware is made in Kentucky.
  • Leather back patches are cut & stamped in Los Angeles & waistband label is woven locally in Los Angeles.
  • Every aspect of the production is US made in Downtown Los Angeles.


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