The Slim Straight 14oz 'Black Summer' Japan Selvage

If you've spent any amount of time reading or researching selvage denim on the internet you've probably read or heard the following claim -  'American Mills sold all their looms to Japan in the 80s...'. This is a myth that has been perpetuated by well intentioned yet very misinformed menswear blogs who write the obligatory selvage denim feature every Fall.

The truth is Japan never needed American looms because they had their own. By 1924, a small company called Toyoda (the first incarnation of Toyota Motors) perfected a technologically advanced loom that utilized a fully automatic shuttle reload. Traditionally one loom operator would manually load new weft bobbins into the the shuttle however due to the automatic reload one operator could now manage up to 20 looms at a time.  The first version was called the Model G loom. Due to the success of the Model G, Toyoda Automatic Loom Works was able to fund their first automobile design and production which eventually led to the establishing of the Toyota Motor Division in 1933 and then the Toyota Motor Co. in 1937.

The 14oz selvage quality being offered for this drop was woven on the Toyoda Model G3 loom which is still in use at some of Japans most legendary denim mills.

    Fabric Notes:

    Black warp and natural weft established what could be considered the height of the bad boy greaser image that denim perpetuated in the 50's. This quality embodies the attributes of selvage denim from this era by especially paying attention to the yarn with an emphasis on consistency. This type of yarn consistency was hard to achieve back in the 50's when Mother Nature was more in control of the outcome of the yearly cotton crop  - meaning yarn staple lengths varied greatly due to lack of agriculture science.  

    • 14oz RHT Black warp yarn x Natural fill yarn. Black selvage iD. 
    • Woven on the infamous Toyoda G3 loom
    • Fades to a beautiful dusty grey in time.
    • An essential addition to your rotation of raws. Small batch production, limited stock.
    • Style tip: When in doubt wear black.



    Details include:

    • Neutral tan top stitching for authentic denim aesthetic
    • Sewn & chain stitched in all the right places on vintage Union Special, Reece & Singer machines.
    • A & E core spun poly thread for maximum strength & durability.
    • Embroidered star insignia on the right back pocket represents ‘Made in America’ status.
    • Button fly with double prong, donut style buttons. Old style pocket rivet burrs.
    • All hardware is made in Kentucky.
    • Leather back patches are cut & stamped in Los Angeles & waistband label is woven locally in Los Angeles.
    • Every aspect of the production is US made in Downtown Los Angeles


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